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Wittmann

2018 Wittmann, Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1.5L

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 1.5L

Vinous

94
/
2018 Wittmann, Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1.5L
Wittmann

2018 Wittmann, Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1.5L

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 1.5L

Vinous

94
/

The Brunnenhauschen site, located east of Morstein, benefits from slower grape ripening due to its altitude, resulting in an extended growing season. The soil is composed of limestone and clayish marl, which features reddish patches due to its high iron content. Following a gentle pressing, the wine is delicately managed using gravity flow and ages in neutral barrels.

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A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Phillipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

Wittmann

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

Meet the Producer

Wittmann

A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Phillipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

Vinous

Vinous

94

Subtly floral and coolingly herbal scents – typical of this site and here suggestive of gentian and thyme – offer welcome respite from the relentlessly chalky and piquant assault launched by so many Wittmann Rieslings on the nose, not to mention on the palate. The flowers and herbs are accompanied by intimations of apple, white peach and lime anticipating the sappy, juicy profusion of fruit – that, too, a departure from the prevailing Wittmann Riesling personality – delivered on a polished, glossy subtly silken palate. Luscious pit fruitiness, brightly juicy citricity, subtle chalkiness and salinity combine with savory and herbal elements for a mouthwatering evocation of raw oyster. Billowing inner-mouth floral perfume further informs a sustained, delightfully and intriguingly interactive finish that compels the next sip. Striking here, too, is the sense of lift for a wine of 13% alcohol.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

94

Subtly floral and coolingly herbal scents – typical of this site and here suggestive of gentian and thyme – offer welcome respite from the relentlessly chalky and piquant assault launched by so many Wittmann Rieslings on the nose, not to mention on the palate. The flowers and herbs are accompanied by intimations of apple, white peach and lime anticipating the sappy, juicy profusion of fruit – that, too, a departure from the prevailing Wittmann Riesling personality – delivered on a polished, glossy subtly silken palate. Luscious pit fruitiness, brightly juicy citricity, subtle chalkiness and salinity combine with savory and herbal elements for a mouthwatering evocation of raw oyster. Billowing inner-mouth floral perfume further informs a sustained, delightfully and intriguingly interactive finish that compels the next sip. Striking here, too, is the sense of lift for a wine of 13% alcohol.