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R. Pouillon & Fils

2018 R. Pouillon & Fils, Les Terres Froides Extra Brut Premier Cru, Mareuil-sur-Ay

France Chardonnay Champagne Premier Cru 750ML Extra Brut
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R. Pouillon & Fils

2018 R. Pouillon & Fils, Les Terres Froides Extra Brut Premier Cru, Mareuil-sur-Ay

France Chardonnay Champagne Premier Cru 750ML Extra Brut
/

From a Chardonnay parcel of the same name in the Montagne de Reims, a site just 1% shy of being named Grand Cru. Heavy chalk and some clay soils in a cold (Froid) microclimate lend a brilliantly compact and intense wine. The initial aroma is precise, citrus fruit and lees forward, like walking into a boulangerie while peeling a lemon. The wine opens with some further citrus and vanilla notes on the front palate and coarse phenolics on the mid-palate and finish. These phenolics are a Chekov’s gun, soon to be resolved.

 

After some time in the glass, the wine begins to evolve. The sweet vanilla note counteracts the zesty citrus, and the wine goes from phenolic to saline and mineral. There is still tension, but the weight of the wine and the high acid combine to create the high notes and elegance of profound freshness.

 

In its final act, the wine sheds some of its tension, as tropical characteristics of pineapple and mango skins intermingle with the phenolics and toasty qualities to bring forth a sort of bittersweetness. My observation was “Mexican tamarind candy” with sweetness, tropical fruits (skins and all), and a little bit of a spice sensation.

 

To conclude, this piece of wine art is pensive, evocative, and performative. It requires all three acts, and some patience, which is sometimes tough to find in our daily “grind”. But if you give it the time, it sings beautifully with texture, length and ample complexity not found in your standard bottle of “Veuve”. And, furthermore, I believe this wine has some incredible aging potential and will just improve with time in bottle, which is only truly said of your “Tete de Cuvee” Champagnes.

And, furthermore, I believe this wine has some incredible aging potential and will just improve with time in bottle, which is only truly said of your “Tete de Cuvee” Champagnes.

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The intention for thoughtfulness and complexity is not a gimmick but a reality in the wines of Champagne Pouillon. Grown in the Grand Cru village of Mareuil-Sur-Ay in the Vallee de la Marne (as well as other terroirs in Marne and Montagne des Reims), the grapes of Fabrice Pouillon are meticulously and organically farmed, even utilizing some biodynamic principles. This careful process results in expressive, intricately structured wines that evolve on the palate and evoke the character of their individual terroir.

R. Pouillon & Fils

Fabrice joined the family business in 1998, and he quickly began working to convert the vineyards to biodynamic viticulture, with an eye to improving the overall health of the fruit. His care for quality extends to his winemaking, where all juice flows via gravity into their vessel, where they are allowed to ferment naturally. Even the pressings are done carefully, in fractional steps, a departure from most in Champagne who care more about speed than exacting quality. The results are stupendous: both freshness and concentration of flavor abound.

Meet the Producer

R. Pouillon & Fils

The intention for thoughtfulness and complexity is not a gimmick but a reality in the wines of Champagne Pouillon. Grown in the Grand Cru village of Mareuil-Sur-Ay in the Vallee de la Marne (as well as other terroirs in Marne and Montagne des Reims), the grapes of Fabrice Pouillon are meticulously and organically farmed, even utilizing some biodynamic principles. This careful process results in expressive, intricately structured wines that evolve on the palate and evoke the character of their individual terroir.

Fabrice joined the family business in 1998, and he quickly began working to convert the vineyards to biodynamic viticulture, with an eye to improving the overall health of the fruit. His care for quality extends to his winemaking, where all juice flows via gravity into their vessel, where they are allowed to ferment naturally. Even the pressings are done carefully, in fractional steps, a departure from most in Champagne who care more about speed than exacting quality. The results are stupendous: both freshness and concentration of flavor abound.

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