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Agrapart & Fils

2011 Agrapart & Fils, Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru, Avize

France Chardonnay Champagne Avize Grand Cru 750ML Extra Brut

Vinous

94

CellarTracker

92
/
2011 Agrapart & Fils, Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru, Avize
Agrapart & Fils

2011 Agrapart & Fils, Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru, Avize

France Chardonnay Champagne Avize Grand Cru 750ML Extra Brut

Vinous

94

CellarTracker

92
/
0 In Stock

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Though only recently rising to prominence, the Agrapart family has not only grown grapes in the village of Avize, but has been one of exceedingly few to bottle champagne since the inception of the estate in 1894.

Agrapart & Fils

Today, brothers Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart create wines of mindfulness and complexity, limiting production to what they can craft by hand rather than risking a loss of quality for monetary gain - no more than 5400 cases a year. As their family has grown vines in Avize for more than a century, Pascal - whose name now graces the label - has access to some of Champagne’s oldest vines, which allow his Champagnes to carry their trademark intensity, which is paramount as he never seeks overt richness in his wines. Chardonnay rules here, as it of course holds Grand Cru status in Avize. The family formerly had some red grapes, though Pascal has admitted that he never liked to work with macerations, preferring the whites as they were more to his palate. Throughout the family’s vineyards, one can get a sense for the breadth of Avize’s slope, and the Agrapart cuvées reflect the many facets of the village, ranging from high on the slope where the clay atop the soil is at its deepest, surprisingly, to the bottom of the slope where the chalk is more prominent. At its midpoint lies the family’s oldest vineyard, plowed by a horse who gave the resulting wine its name, Venus - perhaps the most intense wine of the range.

7 Crus starts the range, a Chardonnay drawn from seven different sections of the Côte des Blancs, blended to be complex but approachable, a wine of good ripeness and balance. Terroirs and every cuvée following consists solely of Grand Cru fruit, this cuvée sourced mainly from Avize, with fruit also sourced from Oger, Cramant and Oiry, stunning in its precision, showcasing both citrus and orchard fruit with a hint of a sweet green tone that adds a layer of aromatic sweetness. Complantée is a model from which several other producers have found the freedom to explore the historic grapes of the region that have fallen out of favor - here, not only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, but also Pinot Blanc, Arbane and Petit Meslier, all from a single vineyard in Avize. Wildly complex, this field blend reminds many of the great Marcel Deiss’s blends in Alsace.

Venus comes from only 0.3 hectares on the Avize midslope, where both chalk and clay dominate. This allows for the resulting wine to show the most richness of the entire range, but also carry the Avize trademark spicy zest of acidity. Avizoise comes from Les Robards and La Vote d’Epernay, two of the oldest parcels of the estate, both at the top of the hillside of Avize. Here, with clay dominating, there is great weight (for the house), and a gorgeous bouquet of dried fruit and spice.

Experience has been controversial and was quite an ordeal for Pascal to produce. He sought to create a wine using nothing but grapes; that is to say that to spark both primary and secondary fermentations, he would use nothing outside of his own grape material - no sugar or yeast from outside sources. First performed with the 2007 harvest, Pascal would allow the first vintage to ferment naturally (without inoculation), then during the following harvest, use the unfermented grape juice as the starter for the secondary (in-bottle) fermentation. Previously unheard of, the governing boards had trouble understanding his process. So far only produced twice, as rarely have two consecutive vintages allowed for the perfect conditions needed to create this natural winemaking miracle. Understandably bearing lower atmospheric pressure, it is a wine to meditate on, as it is an incredibly pure example of Chardonnay made by one of the more thoughtful men in all of the world of wine.

Meet the Producer

Agrapart & Fils

Though only recently rising to prominence, the Agrapart family has not only grown grapes in the village of Avize, but has been one of exceedingly few to bottle champagne since the inception of the estate in 1894.

Today, brothers Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart create wines of mindfulness and complexity, limiting production to what they can craft by hand rather than risking a loss of quality for monetary gain - no more than 5400 cases a year. As their family has grown vines in Avize for more than a century, Pascal - whose name now graces the label - has access to some of Champagne’s oldest vines, which allow his Champagnes to carry their trademark intensity, which is paramount as he never seeks overt richness in his wines. Chardonnay rules here, as it of course holds Grand Cru status in Avize. The family formerly had some red grapes, though Pascal has admitted that he never liked to work with macerations, preferring the whites as they were more to his palate. Throughout the family’s vineyards, one can get a sense for the breadth of Avize’s slope, and the Agrapart cuvées reflect the many facets of the village, ranging from high on the slope where the clay atop the soil is at its deepest, surprisingly, to the bottom of the slope where the chalk is more prominent. At its midpoint lies the family’s oldest vineyard, plowed by a horse who gave the resulting wine its name, Venus - perhaps the most intense wine of the range.

7 Crus starts the range, a Chardonnay drawn from seven different sections of the Côte des Blancs, blended to be complex but approachable, a wine of good ripeness and balance. Terroirs and every cuvée following consists solely of Grand Cru fruit, this cuvée sourced mainly from Avize, with fruit also sourced from Oger, Cramant and Oiry, stunning in its precision, showcasing both citrus and orchard fruit with a hint of a sweet green tone that adds a layer of aromatic sweetness. Complantée is a model from which several other producers have found the freedom to explore the historic grapes of the region that have fallen out of favor - here, not only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, but also Pinot Blanc, Arbane and Petit Meslier, all from a single vineyard in Avize. Wildly complex, this field blend reminds many of the great Marcel Deiss’s blends in Alsace.

Venus comes from only 0.3 hectares on the Avize midslope, where both chalk and clay dominate. This allows for the resulting wine to show the most richness of the entire range, but also carry the Avize trademark spicy zest of acidity. Avizoise comes from Les Robards and La Vote d’Epernay, two of the oldest parcels of the estate, both at the top of the hillside of Avize. Here, with clay dominating, there is great weight (for the house), and a gorgeous bouquet of dried fruit and spice.

Experience has been controversial and was quite an ordeal for Pascal to produce. He sought to create a wine using nothing but grapes; that is to say that to spark both primary and secondary fermentations, he would use nothing outside of his own grape material - no sugar or yeast from outside sources. First performed with the 2007 harvest, Pascal would allow the first vintage to ferment naturally (without inoculation), then during the following harvest, use the unfermented grape juice as the starter for the secondary (in-bottle) fermentation. Previously unheard of, the governing boards had trouble understanding his process. So far only produced twice, as rarely have two consecutive vintages allowed for the perfect conditions needed to create this natural winemaking miracle. Understandably bearing lower atmospheric pressure, it is a wine to meditate on, as it is an incredibly pure example of Chardonnay made by one of the more thoughtful men in all of the world of wine.

Vinous

Vinous

94

The 2011 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs L'Avizoise Grand Cru has more than enough brawn and depth to fill out its frame. The richness of fruit of this clay-rich site, along with the flavor complexity that is gained through aging on the cork results in a rich, vinous Champagne built on layers of flavor and vertical structure. As good as the 2011 is today, I would prefer to drink it on the earlier side given the challenges that 2011 presented. This is a superb wine for the year and a real revelation. Old vines in the Les Robarts and La Voie d’Epernay lieu-dits inform the Avizoise. Disgorged: May 2017. Dosage is 5 grams per liter.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

94

The 2011 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs L'Avizoise Grand Cru has more than enough brawn and depth to fill out its frame. The richness of fruit of this clay-rich site, along with the flavor complexity that is gained through aging on the cork results in a rich, vinous Champagne built on layers of flavor and vertical structure. As good as the 2011 is today, I would prefer to drink it on the earlier side given the challenges that 2011 presented. This is a superb wine for the year and a real revelation. Old vines in the Les Robarts and La Voie d’Epernay lieu-dits inform the Avizoise. Disgorged: May 2017. Dosage is 5 grams per liter.