Vouette et Sorbee
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To some, maybe even most, Bertrand Gautherot is the godfather of today’s Aube wine scene - formerly a region that legislators voted to exclude from the entirety of the region of Champagne. Many are captivated by Gautherot’s dedication to biodynamic viticulture, but while he follows its principles, he does so merely to produce what he thinks are the very best wines for him, rather than to follow biodynamics as a religion.
Gautherot’s first bottlings came in 2001 after his friend Anselme Selosse convinced him to quit selling his gorgeous fruit. The name of his estate was taken from his primary vineyards - Vouette lies on Kimmeridgian soils, the “soils” more closely-resembling fossilized seashells and coral, most similar to those of the lower altitude vineyards of Chablis; Sorbée lies on Portlandian soil, a thinner soil also found in the higher slopes of Northern Burgundy and Chablis. Both vineyards hold Pinot Noir and a tiny bit of Pinot Blanc, whereas a third vineyard called Biauines contains both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Kimmeridgian soils. All wines are of a single vintage, noted in small print on the back label usually, as Gautherot disgorges his wines rather early. Gautherot’s wines should be looked at independent of vintage, as the maladies seen in years like 2005 , 2006 or 2011 were avoided by great viticulture - no wonder he’s so highly respected.
Fidele is the most commonly-seen of his small-production range - a 100% Pinot Noir wine of tremendous depth, hinting at a delightful touch of oxidation even when young, enough to give even more depth and richness. Fidèle is drawn from both Vouette and Biaunes. Blanc d'Argile is 100% Chardonnay from Biaunes, resembling a Premier Cru white Burgundy in structure and taste with its salty citrus and pristine minerality. Saignée de Sorbée comes entirely from the Sorbée vineyard of course, one of the greatest rosés ever produced in Champagne in terms of depth of flavor. Whole cluster-fermented, 100% Pinot Noir, the color in the glass resembles a sparkling Chambolle Musigny, and the aromatics similar in their spice, dark red fruits and chalky tones. Textures is a favorite of those who can find it - Pinot Blanc from Sorbée, fermented in amphorae along with fresh Pinot Blanc grapes - Gautherot is convinced most Pinot Blancs are quite bland as the flavors can oxidize quickly with such a delicate grape, and that the inclusion of fresh grapes heightens the aromatics! One shouldn’t argue, as the creamy, minty flavors are complemented by an almost golden-floral aroma. Extrait is another rarity, a wine that Bertrand keeps on its lees for a long period of time (for him, so about ten years), and is typically his only blended wine - about 70% Pinot Noir and the remainder Chardonnay.
