David Leclapart

From the hamlet of Trepail in the Montagne de Reims, David has long specialized in Chardonnay-based wines from a terroir more renowned for its Pinot Noir. The clay and limestone soils impart a unique creaminess to the wines, while preserving that trademark zest. One of the more dogmatic practitioners of biodynamics, Leclapart was one of the earliest adopters of farming without the aid of chemicals in Champagne, a cold region that was thought to only successfully achieve ripeness through chemical aid. Turns out, if you just care - to the point of sleeping in your cellar to be close to your fermenting juice - you can create greatness.

From a measly 3 hectares, David creates around 10-15 thousand bottles per year. In the cellar, there is no stainless steel - no negative ions happening here - and the wines are fermented instead in either neutral barrel or enamel-lined tanks with native yeasts. Never is dosage added, or even needed - the wines always seem perfectly ripe, bursting with character and persistent energy.

L'Amateur is 100% Chardonnay from a variety of his parcels in Trepail, a beautiful introduction to the style of Leclapart. Round, soft as ever and with beautiful aromatics of white fruits and flowers. L'Aphrodisiaque is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir - an anomaly for Leclapart, but a welcome one. This spends time in aged barrels sourced from Leflaive, adding to the glorious texture and perhaps helping to elevate the creamy citrus and orchard fruits, with hints of red berries and delicate spice as well.