Coudert
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Coudert and their Clos de la Roilette lieu-dit in Fleurie is likely one of the best Beaujolais producers you have never heard of. In a region that is finally getting some recognition for fine wines, Alain Coudert's wines have flown under the radar, but that is a damn shame. This producer, with clay and manganese soils in Fleurie (as well as vineyards in Brouilly and Moulin a Vent), not only represents a Beaujolais with such structure that it can age like a fine Burgundy but is also an insane value for the price even in a relatively competitive price-market of Beaujolais.
The Clos de la Roilette, a lieu-dit in the village of Fleurie, covers nine hectares of one of the best slopes in the Beaujolais Crus. The clos has an eastern exposure that borders the Moulin-à-Vent appellation and produces beautiful wines when young. They can be aged 5-10 years, depending on the year.
In the 1920s, when the Fleurie appellation was first formulated, the former landowner was infuriated with losing the Moulin-à-Vent appellation, under which the clos had previously been classified. He created a label using a photograph of his racehorse Roilette and used “Clos de la Roilette” without mentioning Fleurie.
The owner vowed not to sell a single bottle of his wine in France, and the production went to Switzerland, Germany, and England. By the mid-1960s, the owner’s heirs had lost interest in the vineyard, and a large portion of the land had become unkempt. In 1967, Fernand Coudert bought this poorly maintained estate and replanted the vineyards. His son Alain joined him in 1984 and has been the winemaker since.
The Couderts say their particular terroir (mainly clay and manganese), and the age of their vines account for the richness of their wine. It has a deep blackcurrant color with a hint of purple, a restrained nose of crème de cassis, a rich, full mouth with aromas of cassis, black cherries, and a nutty character, and finishes with zesty acidity. This is a wine that ages gracefully and takes on the aromatic character of a Pinot Noir.With the 1998 vintage, the Couderts introduced a new wine, "Cuvée Christal" (recently renamed "Cuvée Christie"), which is lighter and meant to drink younger. A few years later, they started a selection of old vines cuvée. They call this "Cuvée Tardive," meaning it needs more aging time and has even greater longevity than the regular Fleurie cuvée.
Finally, the most recent addition is a wine called "La Griffe du Marquis", made from the same old vines that produce "Cuvée Tardive" but vinified and aged exclusively in Burgundian barrels. The name, meaning the signature of the Marquis, is tongue in cheek, as Alain’s parents were not descendants of royalty but were often referred to by the titles of Marquis and Marquise in their village.
