Coessens
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"Jerome inherited the reins of the family estate in 2003, and has sectioned off 5.5 of the 8 hectare family plot to use for his own label, leasing the rest and keeping the best for himself. Here, Pinot Noir is king, and a full monopoly of reign here, as it is the only varietal in the Coessens wine. With the hefty amount of clay, Pinot Noir really can express itself, and these are among the heartiest of Champagnes - truly achieving perfect ripeness of flavor."
"The first thing I noticed about this wine was the energy that jumped out of the glass upon first sip," says Daniel. There was an intense effervescence that ransacked my palate but the wine settled in beautifully after a few minutes of being open."
The flagship wine of Jerome Coessen's label, Largillier, really says it all, especially if you know French; the name refers to the wild amounts of clay interspersed with the chunks of limestone and chalk throughout his vineyards. Largely, the Aube can be somewhat defined by those chunks of limestone, with soils really sharing similarities to its Burgundian neighbors, as it's actually a region closer to Chablis than it is to the heart of Champagne.
The Largillier really represents the house style; as Daniel agreed, "This Largillier has a BIG personality and should not be relegated to a champagne flute in my opinion. It's quintessential Pinot Noir in the best way possible with plush raspberries layered over a bit of limestone and minerality."
Largillier is sourced from the plots dubbed "Fruit" and "Flower", and is balanced in its intensity.
The Exogyre utilizes a perpetual reserve, generating a wildly complex wine showing both fresh and developed flavors, blended harmoniously. As opposed to Largillier's 29 months on the lees, Exogyre sees 53 months' time sur latte.
Les Sens Boises is made in the same fashion and with the same time on the lees as Largillier, but is sourced from the parcel within Coessens' vineyard that he has dubbed "Substance" - it generates the most depth and power, with ripe yellow fruits and spicy aromatics.
