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Cellar Access

Welcome to your monthly

Cellar Access

MAY 2024 - CELLAR ACCESS!

MAY 2024 - CELLAR ACCESS!

by Garrett Smith

It’s gonna be May (I mean it is May, but then the reference wouldn’t work)

For this month’s selections, we are following the advice of Mother Earth, and selecting delicious wines from producers who work harmoniously with the land, maintain the biosphere within their vineyards, and create beautiful wines that elevate the regions they call home. The adage of “good wine starts in the vineyard” rings true here, as the producers take a meticulous, near-dogmatic approach to viticulture and that M.O. carries into the cellar.

And the result? Well... we will let you decide.


×

This wine has a per person limit. We do this as the wine is hard to find, very rare and/or incredibly sought after.

We do this to ensure that we are able to share the love with everyone!

We kindly ask that you do not abuse this limit by placing multiple orders. In the event that you place multiple orders - they will be canceled and subject to a 5% cancellation fee.

If you would like to request more than the allowable amount - we may be able to help - send us an email at info@thatcherswineconsulting.com

2022 Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Auf dem Holzchen Riesling Kabinett trocken, Mosel AP-21

2022 Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Auf dem Holzchen Riesling Kabinett trocken, Mosel AP-21

2022 Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Auf dem Holzchen Riesling Kabinett trocken, Mosel AP-21

From 50-60-year-old vines above the Ober Schäfershaus, a concentrated burst of fruit flavors of stone fruits and hints of sweet herbs. In classic Mosel/Falkenstein fashion this displays laser-like precision, elegant floral character, and immense minerality.

Hofgut Falkenstein

Erich and Johannes work mindfully, very similarly to the Germany of old in that there are no additions or subtractions from the wines - for ages the German wines would be chaptalized or de-acidified, in an attempt to make the wines more friendly to the gross public. You would see the labels of those who avoided these practices bearing the name "Naturwein", or "natural wine" - I guess you could say the Falkenstein wines have gotten lumped into this category; however, these are not to be taken lightly. 

On the ancient German wine maps, Euchariusberg was noted as one of the finest vineyards in the Saar; today the Webers have brought the vines into extraordinary health once more, their plots at the very heart of the vineyard. The vines are mostly 40-50 years of age, but some are in excess of 90 years of age! Yields are painstakingly low - the vines trimmed to allow only one cane, or essentially only one branch of the vine to bear the entirety of that vine's energy, pouring all sorts of intensity and concentration into each grape. The vines tunnel through quartz and iron-rich gray slate which shows through the wines with a crystalline mineral tone. 

Each wine bottling - referred to by "A.P." number, which is in reference to each fuder (large cask) - is individual and usually separated by plot. The grapes are gently pressed and allowed to flow via gravity into their respective casks where they are allowed to ferment naturally. From there, once the wines have reached their desired maturity in cask, the wines will be bottled directly from the fuder, without racking or any other violent movement of the juice. 

In summation, these are quite possibly the most authentic wines at least of the Saar, if not a wider swath of German regions. Each bottle is individual and well worth seeking out. We treasure the ability to bring these to you, and don't anticipate them being around for long!

×

This wine has a per person limit. We do this as the wine is hard to find, very rare and/or incredibly sought after.

We do this to ensure that we are able to share the love with everyone!

We kindly ask that you do not abuse this limit by placing multiple orders. In the event that you place multiple orders - they will be canceled and subject to a 5% cancellation fee.

If you would like to request more than the allowable amount - we may be able to help - send us an email at info@thatcherswineconsulting.com

2020 Azienda Agricola LaLu, Barbera d&

THE VINEYARD La Morra & Monforte d'Alba

SOIL Limestone-clay soils with fossilized shells & marl

FERMENTATION 1/3 whole clusters retained, with 1/3 de-stemmed and 1/3 clipped berries

AGING Aged in large Austrian oak barrels and then some time in second passage barriques for a total of about eight months.

Azienda Agricola LaLu

Lara and Luisa have burst onto the scene at a seemingly young age, having already compiled a wildly impressive C.V., though it took a circuitous route. A chance meeting at the University of Gastronomic Science in Pollenzo created a fast friendship, and as their joint studies introduced the young duo to the world of biodiversity, the proverbial seed was planted within their minds. Through visits to producers to learn about the benefits of biodiversity in a gastronomic sense, the vinous side of the equation tugged at their curiosity.

Through their studies and Luisa's work in a wine shop, Lara and Luisa were able to taste a great deal of wine and soon began to experiment with ideas as to what methods inside the winery and vineyards would lead to the creation of the greatest final product. Their joint thesis centered around creating a carbon-neutral winery, but it was all still theoretical - they needed to get their hands dirty.

As city girls from Torino rather than heiresses to a Piedmontese winery, the early opportunities for graduates of a program that didn't focus on oenology mostly included more commercialized wineries than the women had idealized, resulting in harvests in South Africa and Argentina. Certainly the opportunity to gain valuable repetitions in the winery and moving grapes and juice around, but not the final picture. Following a return to Italy, after some 200 resumes were sent out, Lara and Luisa begged the Oberto family of Trediberri in La Morra for an internship; this presented an welcome chance to grow within their home region of Piedmont and learn from a young but already successful small and vineyard-focused winery. Trediberri tends enviable plots in the Langhe, including La Morra and Rocche dell'Annunziata, two legendary vineyards that showed the young, aspiring winemakers the potential of strong farming within special vineyards; this only served to whet their collective palate for a chance of their own.

In 2014, through their work with Trediberri the opportunity to acquire their first plot of vines within La Morra - it was all of half a hectare in the La Morra cru of Roncaglie but Lara and Luisa scraped together the funds to acquire it, thus beginning their first joint vigneron venture at the age of 24.

What followed was not complacency in their new purchase, but a need to source more inspiration and education; this presented itself in the form of harvests with legendary Burgundian winemakers Dominique Lafon (2017) and Cecile Tremblay (2018) . Both winemakers are known to craft wines of extraordinary finesse but also focusing strongly on impeccable viticulture, certainly Lafon presented a different challenge from Tremblay: Cecile follows her own lead, spending countless hours carefully measuring taste, texture and structures of both grapes and juice to ensure absolute perfection; Dominique has honed his methods through decades of experience and was one of the early champions of biodynamics in Burgundy, a much larger, but still superlative domaine. Both experiences shaped and honed the views of Lara and Luisa, and in 2019 the first vintage of LaLu was born.

Viticulture & Vinification

Today LaLu organically farms 5 hectares of Nebbiolo and Barbera from choice sites within Monforte and La Morra. Such inspiring experiences with their varied mentors left them compelled to treat both their vineyards and their fruit with exceptional care, to the point that there are no pumps, no punch-downs, and all juice is moved through the winery by gravity flow. As they largely tend to the notoriously tough, tannic and acidic Nebbiolo grape, a soft touch can work wonders to allow a finished Nebbiolo wine to be approachable at a relatively young age. With an eye to finer tannins and more elegance, the grapes are now entirely de-stemmed - they did experiment with partial whole-cluster, but prefer the more delicate structure of forgoing the clusters - and there will be no punch-downs. With an emphasis on delicacy of handling the grapes, as many whole berries are retained as possible; this allows for semi-carbonic maceration, with the eventual effect of a brilliant lift to the wine and its aromatics as well.

With time within their small cantina that they acquired in 2019, team LaLu allows for spontaneous fermentations and will do "pumpovers", sans the pump of course - juice is methodically removed and poured by hand over the top of the grapes - twice per day, just to wet the cap. Macerations vary from 2 weeks to 30 days, and for the Barolo, the cap will be submerged for 30 days, preserving the natural fruit character. Very little press juice is added, generally only in lighter years such as 2022 & 2023, and even then only the most delicate, first-press juice. Again with an emphasis on delicacy, the aging is shorter; after vinification where all plots are fermented separately, the wines will be blended just 7-8 months after harvest (excepting the Barolo) and one year after harvest are bottled. The wines will age in bottle another 5 months before leaving the winery. For the Barolo, which by law must be aged in oak, the duo feels Nebbiolo does not favor small barrels, and the wine will ferment and age in at least 15 hL conical oak casks.

The early returns have been beautiful, from the Barbera to the Langhe Nebbiolo: the Lalu wines are extraordinarily approachable, delicious and bright. With the release of the 2020 vintage, the Barolo comes into the fold; Lara asserts that the wines would be ready to drink earlier than laws permit, as they are not the brutish, burly, structured Barolo but wines of finesse and finer tannins. Joining their friends and compatriots Philine Isabelle and Tom Meyers, LaLu provides another beautiful side of Piedmont to our collection of talented producers!

×

This wine has a per person limit. We do this as the wine is hard to find, very rare and/or incredibly sought after.

We do this to ensure that we are able to share the love with everyone!

We kindly ask that you do not abuse this limit by placing multiple orders. In the event that you place multiple orders - they will be canceled and subject to a 5% cancellation fee.

If you would like to request more than the allowable amount - we may be able to help - send us an email at info@thatcherswineconsulting.com

2020 Domaine Danjou-Banessy, Roboul, Cotes Catalanes

2020 Domaine Danjou-Banessy Roboul- Cotes Catalanes Rouge

2020 Domaine Danjou-Banessy, Roboul, Cotes Catalanes

From a 4 ha vineyard plot in Roussillon on terraces overlooking the Agly River in Roussillon. Mourvèdre and Grenache vines, planted between 1990 and 2005, on clay and limestone with galets roulés (rounded river rocks). Certified organic viticulture with Biodynamic methods also applied. Yields are kept low at 30 hl/ha. Vinified using whole clusters, ambient fermentation, and soft "infusion" rather than extraction methods. Aged 12 months in neutral barrels. Bottled via gravity following the Biodynamic calendar.

The wine is supple, elegant, and blue-fruited, providing the perfect vin de soif experience.

Domaine Danjou-Banessy

A domaine in Espira De L’Aigly, a village in the heart of the sweet wine region of Rivesaltes. Brothers Sebastien and Benoit have taken the vines that have been in their family for generations and made wines that challenge the concept of what Rousillon is, yet show us what Rousillon can be. The Danjou-Banessy wines are bright, lively, complex, and somewhat Burgundian in profile but also represent well their region, “French Catalunya.”

The grapes planted on the 17-ha estate of Danjou-Banessy are traditional-  Cinsault, Mourvedre, Carignan Noir, Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Muscat of Alexandria, and the very rare Grenache Gris. The farming is organic while practicing biodynamics to a T. The winemaking is minimal and reductive (sans oxygen), which is undoubtedly unique in the area known as the homeland of the “Rancio” style (fortified and entirely oxidized for an extended period). Though if you are looking for rancio and visit the domaine, the brothers will oblige, as it is the wine of their grandfather.