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Cellar Access

Welcome to your monthly

Cellar Access

JUNE 2024 - CELLAR ACCESS!

JUNE 2024 - CELLAR ACCESS!

by Garrett Smith

June's edition of Cellar Access brings you three wines that our team has become utterly enamored with. Julien Prelat's Champagnes are essentially fine Burgundies with bubbles, coming from the Aube which is Burgundy-adjacent. Tinus is our go-to, upscale daily drinker from our friends at Guffens-Heynen; finally, Chiara Condello is a producer who neither we nor you all can seemingly get enough of, as the clamoring for her wines has never ceased. Thus, we must acquiesce to our audience!

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This wine has a per person limit. We do this as the wine is hard to find, very rare and/or incredibly sought after.

We do this to ensure that we are able to share the love with everyone!

We kindly ask that you do not abuse this limit by placing multiple orders. In the event that you place multiple orders - they will be canceled and subject to a 5% cancellation fee.

If you would like to request more than the allowable amount - we may be able to help - send us an email at info@thatcherswineconsulting.com

NV Julien Prelat, Presle Blanc de Blancs

Presle is 100% Chardonnay from Celles-Sur-Ource in the Cote de Bar. Sourced from vineyards around 17 years old planted on kimmeridgian soils infused with marine fossils and chalk. No pesticides are used in the vineyard. The wine is finished with 4 g/L dosage.

Bright, full of lemon, lime, red and green apple, toast, brioche and sage. The palate is tense, with fine bubbles, a pinpoint mousse. Just a tiny bit of phenolics contribute to the vibrant character on the mid-palate and finish. This wine was excellent with oysters, with the salty and briny character bringing up the fruit and toast notes while removing any hint of phenolic bitterness.

Julien Prelat

In recent years the Aube is finally getting some attention, what with the stellar production of producers like Bertrand Gautherot (Vouette & Sorbée), Dominique Moreau (Marie Courtin) as well as Julien's good friend, Cedric Bouchard. Much as Cedric has famously done, Julien's cuvées will represent at once a single grape variety, a single vineyard and a single vintage. 

Coming from a family who historically sold their grapes to negociants, Julien works 2.5 hectares in Celles-Sur-Ource, beginning in 2000. You see similar terroir in these regions to what you'd see in Chablis - kimmeridgian soils defined by the fossilized seashells throughout, all of which add a distinct minerality and pleasant salinity to the wines. As with a great Burgundy, the wines of the Aube broaden and become more vinous with air, and the same is true for Julien's wines. Presle may sound familiar as it is the same terroir as Cedric's wine of the same name. La Lemblee consists of Pinot Blanc and Les Reines 100% Chardonnay, from similarly-positioned terroirs to Presle. 

Julien's wines are made in la fut de chêne, a vessel most commonly used in Burgundy. The wines will age on their lees in bottle for 36 months, and be bottled to little-to-no dosage. As these are hand-made wines through and through, production is highly limited!

×

This wine has a per person limit. We do this as the wine is hard to find, very rare and/or incredibly sought after.

We do this to ensure that we are able to share the love with everyone!

We kindly ask that you do not abuse this limit by placing multiple orders. In the event that you place multiple orders - they will be canceled and subject to a 5% cancellation fee.

If you would like to request more than the allowable amount - we may be able to help - send us an email at info@thatcherswineconsulting.com

2022 Guffens-Heynen, Tinus Chardonnay Plateau de L'Aigle, VdF

2022 Guffens-Heynen, Tinus Chardonnay Plateau de L&

2022 Guffens-Heynen, Tinus Chardonnay Plateau de L'Aigle, VdF

Sourced from the Chateau de Tourettes ' Luberon vineyards in the Southern Rhone at 400 m above sea level. The name roughly translates to "a plateau of the eagle, " which hints at its higher elevation. The soils are rich in limestone, perfect for Chardonnay. The wine is produced using only the first press juice for the desired elegance and is first fermented & aged in 25% new oak barrels, followed by a few months on fine lees in barrels and concrete vats. The wine has a very expressive nose with toasted aromas and some reductive characteristics, followed by minerality and fresh herbs. The palate is suave and mineral at the same time!

Guffens-Heynen

Guffens-Heynen wines haven't been in the US for over a decade, however they have remained as one of the most sought after domaines for Burgundy lovers. We had enjoyed various vintages in Europe and Japan, but due to the 10 year gap of not having a US importer, we wanted to seek out the wines and understand them a bit more. William Kelley, being a close friend, introduced us. Arriving at the estate for the initial visit, we spent nearly 9 hours conversing about wine and life.

Interestingly enough, we talk about focusing on young winemakers who are helping to re-define the future of winemaking. Winemakers who are making bold yet smart changes, and practicing healthy viticulture. It may not seem that Jean-Marie fits into this category, but he does in more ways than one! Jean-Marie and his wife Maine settled in Vergisson in 1976. Despite making wine since 1980, the rest aligns pretty closely. We never claim to be an importer of "organic or "biodynamic wines", but try to put a focus on the term healthy viticulture instead. We don't believe you need a certification to achieve something remarkable in the vineyard. Jean-Marie feels just the same wayfrom the appellation system and regulations to the term biodynamics.

After arriving in Vergisson from Belgium, they immediately emerged themselves into learning about winemaking and acquired their first plots of Pierreclos in 1979. Since the early 80s, Jean Marie has been pushing to prove that great chardonnay doesn't solely come from the Côte de Beaune. Nor does it have to have a 1er cru or Grand cru designation on the label. His first official vintage was 1982 with the wines from Vergisson, followed by starting the Negociant label- Verget in 1990. Verget is his project with purchased fruit from Chablis and Côte de Beaune

VITICULURE | GUFFENS-HEYNEN

Guffens believes in making honest wines. We often discuss producers and speak about who they have learned from or have philosophies similar to. Maybe the most controversial view is his dis-belief in the term terroir. This statement is easily misunderstood or questioned, but when you hear him speak about it- it makes more sense. He wants to do what is best for each vineyard in regards to farming and picking. Ultimately it takes a human, not just terroir, to make these decisions. The decision of when to plant, what to plant, how to manage the vineyard and all of the decisions to make at harvest. Although he isn't one for terms- he has created some of his own, non-cultivation. He works the soils only once a year, but only very shallowly. He uses a mower to control growth of grass and weeds with the idea that this limits nitrogen production and soil compaction. He does not deleaf or hedge his vines, as all of these things tend to support more vegetative growth and lower acidity in his grapes. He harvests late with pretty ripe grapes. The berries are typically smaller as are yields. If ripening is varying in the vineyards, it is time to harvest. Usually multiple passes happen each harvest, something not typically practiced in Burgundy. In total, the Domaine wines’ now consist of 5.65 hectares in Vergisson, Pierreclos, and Davaye.

VINIFICATION | GUFFENS-HEYNEN

As important as picking ripe grapes is in the vineyard, pressing may be one of the most crucial parts of winemaking to Jean-Marie. The grapes are lightly crushed before being pressed. In the winery a modified coquard press is used (also uncommon in Burgundy). The first press and free run juice is a crucial part of their pressing. This is the juice that is lower in PH and provides the incredible acidity we find in the Guffens wines. When done correctly, it is quite magical. All of this is what Jean-Marie really thinks makes the major difference. It is different from vintage to vintage and vineyard to vineyard, it’s usually slow and meticulously done. It is more the person working the press than the press itself. The wine is then transferred for fermentation- various size barrels and concrete depending on the vintage.

See More at Thatcher's Imports
×

This wine has a per person limit. We do this as the wine is hard to find, very rare and/or incredibly sought after.

We do this to ensure that we are able to share the love with everyone!

We kindly ask that you do not abuse this limit by placing multiple orders. In the event that you place multiple orders - they will be canceled and subject to a 5% cancellation fee.

If you would like to request more than the allowable amount - we may be able to help - send us an email at info@thatcherswineconsulting.com

2020 Chiara Condello, Predappio, Romagna

From 40-year-old (on average) vines, planted on three separate estate parcels, 450 to 1,050 feet above sea level facing north/northwest. Soils include red clay, limestone, and spungone, a calcareous sandstone abundant in chalky marine fossils. The wine is hand-picked, destemmed, and fermented on native yeast in stainless steel tanks, open-top wooden fermentation tanks, and tonneaux. Aged in 3.5 hl Slavonian oak ‘botti’.

This wine is elegant and wild at the same time. Fresh fruit characteristics of red cherry, blueberry, and cassis intermingle with complex flavors of sweet bread, clove, cinnamon, charred earth, garrigue, and musk. Pradappio has medium-plus, silky but profound tannins, bright acid, and an elegant texture on the palate. Marvelously concentrated, bold, yet elegant.

Chiara Condello

In between the Apennine mountains and the Adriatic Sea, Romagna has been getting a new reputation, thanks to Chiara. The news is spreading quickly, and her wines are moving in and out of some of the top restaurants and retail shops, globally. In the foothills of the Apennine mountains, Chiara farms 10ha of Sangiovese organically. 2015 was her first vintage after working with her father for years at the family Domaine. Predappio’s unique soils are rich in marine fossils, giving Sangiovese grown here a luminous, suave and spiced character, coupled with the smaller berries with thicker skin, traditional to the region. Grapes are hand-harvested with some cuvees being de-stemmed and others not. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks and open-top wood fermenters or larger tonneaux. The wines are aged in botti.

The Predappio is a blend of three different parcels of the estate all between 450 and 1,050 feet above sea level with an average age of 40 years. The soils vary from red clay and limestone to the local spungone. Predappio is destemmed, fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks, as well as upright, open-top wooden fermentation tanks and tonneaux. Aged for 12 months in used, 3.5HL Slavonian oak botti.

Le Lucciole is Chiara's Riserva. It's 100% Sangiovese sourced from a parcel of 0.8 hectares planted at a density of 5,500 vines at about 750m elevation. Planted on the local spungone soils. The wine is partially destemmed and fermented in open-top wooden tanks and tonneaux. The wine is aged for 2 years in botti and a year in the bottle.